Lash Mapping vs. Lash Types: Why They’re Not the Same Thing

When lash artists start learning how to recreate inspo photos, the first instinct is to ask:
“What mapping is this?”

And while mapping is important, it’s only one piece of the puzzle — and honestly, it’s the least important piece when it comes to recreating today’s trend-heavy, texture-forward sets.

If you’ve ever tried to recreate a look using the same mapping and still ended up with a totally different result… this is exactly why.

Let’s break down the difference between lash mapping and lash types, and why understanding both will completely change the way you read inspo photos.

What Lash Mapping Actually Tells You

Mapping tells you:

• Where each length goes

• What shape the lengths make

• The flow from inner to outer corner

• The “outline” of the set

It’s the blueprint — helpful, but not enough.

Mapping does not tell you:

• Texture

• Use of specialty curls

• Length manipulation

• Layer placement

• Fan type

• How dramatic or soft the set will look

This is why two artists can follow the exact same map and end up with two completely different looks.

What Lash Types Tell You (The Real Game-Changer)

Lash types determine:

• Texture

• Depth in layers

• Definition

• Movement

• How the set photographs

• Whether it’s anime, wispy, strip-lash-like, or classic volume

Examples of lash types:

• Open volume fans
  

• Closed fans
  

• Camellia fans

• Closed spikes

• Wispy fan
  

• Filler spike

These choices matter far more than the map alone.

Real Example: Same Mapping, Two Different Looks

Imagine two sets using the same lengths and the same CC curl.
Yet they look completely different.

Why?

Different Lash Types = Different Texture

One set uses only open volume fans → soft, fluffy, uniform.
The other uses spikes + camellia closed fans → bold, defined, anime-style texture.

Layering Technique Changes the Depth

Top-layer spikes = strong definition.
Middle-layer fans = blended softness.
Bottom-layer placement = fullness and allows for base manipulation.

Same map — totally different dimension.

Same Curl & Diameter Still Look Different

Even if both artists use 0.05 CC curls, the set won’t look the same.
Because curl doesn’t determine texture — lash type + layering + fan structure do.

This is why “what mapping is this?” is the wrong question to start with when recreating specialty sets.

So What Should You Ask Instead?

Instead of asking:

“What mapping is this?”

Start asking:

“What lash types were used to create this look?”
“What layering technique was applied?”
“Which curls created this texture?”

These questions will unlock the actual details behind:

• Anime lashes

• Wispy sets

• Strip-lash effect

• Textured volume

• Wet lash styles

• Any modern specialty set

Mapping gives you the skeleton.
Lash types build the personality.

Final Thoughts

Lash artists today need more than just maps — they need an eye for texture, depth, and lash materials.
Once you shift your focus from “lengths” to “lash types,” you’ll understand inspo photos on a whole new level and be able to recreate anything your clients bring in.

I teach this inside my online styling course called Lash Craft for lash artists who want to upgrade their styling skills and learn how to recreate any inspo pic with confidence.

If you’re ready to level up your artistry, make sure you join our email list. You’ll be the first to know when enrollment opens and you’ll receive 15% off when the course launches. Dive into expert techniques, innovative strategies, and inspiring ideas that will help you craft lash sets that stand out. Perfect for artists ready to break boundaries and redefine their style.